Keep your ear to the ground

Beirut War Cemetery

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Location:
Beirut, Lebanon

Altitude:
33m

Biggest Challenge:
Security / weather

Language:
Arabic

Rainfall:
825mm

Temperature:
10c - 31c

Before going to work, the Commonwealth War Grave Commission’s Lebanese gardeners always switch on the local radio. Though the dry summers and spring flash floods cause them enough problems, they’re not listening to check the weather – they’re making sure it’s safe to go to work.

It’s a necessary precaution. Beirut has found itself the centre of attention for dangerous reasons in the past. There’s still political instability in neighbouring countries. A refugee centre near to CWGC’s Beirut War Cemetery can at times be the focal point for tense stand offs that spill out into the street.

Gardeners are on strict instructions to stay home at the slightest sign of trouble.

Thankfully, most days in Beirut begin peacefully enough. An early start before the sun’s punishing summer heat is normal for head gardener Yousef.

Beirut War Cemetery’s grand date palms can only provide so much shade and the locally grown roses need constant attention to stay in bloom.

The cemetery here is split into two parts: The First World War section is dominated by the graves of men who died of Spanish flu during the military occupation in 1918-19.

On the other side of the road, the Second World War part pays testament to the cost of the brutal fighting to reclaim the city from Vichy French and subsequent occupation.

And the World Wars weren’t the last time shots were fired here. During the complex Lebanese Civil War, it’s said the cemetery was used as an artillery position.

Throughout the 70s and 80s the local gardeners did what they could despite repeated calls by the Commission not to put themselves at risk.

One close call saw the head gardener forced to take cover behind a wall for an hour while sheltering from a bombardment.

By the time the civil war ended the number of headstones damaged by missiles and shell fire nearly reached 1,000. Luckily the damage was only superficial. The graves remained undisturbed and by 1994 the cemeteries were completely restored by the Commission.

Today, it’s the weather that causes the most problems. Flash spring floods and long, hot summers mean tending to flowers is a constant war against the elements, making that weather forecast on the radio important to pay attention to as well.

While the city has developed around us, CWGC has tended Beirut War Cemetery for almost a century.
In this photo from 1982 the damage caused during the Lebanese Civil War is clear to see.
Despite trying weather conditions CWGC's local team manage to make these Europeana roses flourish.
This archive image from after the First World War shows Beirut War Cemetery before the city grew around it.
The vibrant colours in Beirut War Cemetery are a testament to the work of CWGC's local team.
On top of graffiti and vandalism, nearly 1,000 headstones were destroyed during the Lebanese Civil War.
The entrance to Beirut War Cemetery is decorated with flags on Armistice Day in 1924.
Banner illustration of the Four Corners logo